Terroir Bazaar

Vin et Géologie

What's that bustle in the hedgerow? Could it be a springtime assortment of wines delivered to your door? Why yes, that's exactly what it is! We're at it again, and this time the coming of spring has us thinking about all that green beginning to pop out of the ground, and more importantly - what's in the ground. That's right, we're delving into the earth to explore soils and some fun and fascinating wines from different types of dirt. A Terroir Bazaar, if you will.

Let's get dirty with a celebration of seasonal change in wine form!

You may have heard the phrase “great wine is made in the vineyard,” and it’s true! The best wines come from amazing terroirs which cultivate the best grapes. But before you can produce great grapes, a variety of factors must harmonize in sync to give the vine what it needs to yield those juicy and sugar filled clusters we know and love.

Terroir is the French word for the elements of nature that contribute to the outcome of wine, including soil, climate and topography. It’s a dynamic concept rather than a literal translation of soil type or a combination of environmental factors. Although it is that too, and we’re going to focus on soil on this episode of your favorite wine show - The Waddle. But, terroir can best be explained as a tension between factors in the natural environment influencing a vineyard, and the ability of a vine to struggle and thrive in a delicate balance. That balance is something that is held in perfect unison - think of a spider web with strands of interconnected threads, forces acting and counteracting upon each other. Something a little out of place and it all falls apart. This is the space that Terroir inhabits, and this concept of balance exists in all the wine regions of the world but the players are different depending on where you are. The greatest wines are held in their own unique state of balance - aromatic complexity with alluring texture on the palette only comes from great soils.

Before we get into it, it's at least worth touching upon the environmental factors in play - the biggest being climate of which there are four main types: Continental (hot summers and cold winters, not influenced by any bodies of water), Mediterranean (moderate climate in winter and summer), Maritime (cooler climate with moderating body of water nearby), and the much more uncommon Alpine (cooler due to high altitude). Eastern Washington is decisively continental, while the Willamette Valley has significant maritime influence and this is the reason there are Washington Cabs and Oregon Pinots and not the other way around (usually!). In general, cooler climate vineyards produce lighter bodied wines that have more acid, less sugar and therefore less potential alcohol, are more aromatic and maintain brighter fruit flavors. Warmer climates make wines that have less acid, more potential alcohol due to ripeness, have a fuller body and darker fruit flavors.

In addition to climate, the soil, yes - is important (and we’ll get to that) but there’s also latitude which we discussed in our last Waddle, which accounts for the amount of days and the angle of sunshine as well as providing a temperate zone that gives the vines seasonal change and an ability to go dormant for a period of rejuvenation. There’s also the general geographic features which in terms of a vineyard could include the contours - a flat vs. hilly landscape impacting drainage. The aspect is the cardinal direction your vineyard block may face. If your vineyard is East-facing, the sun will burn off humidity early in the day preventing mildew and rot, for instance. Having geologic features nearby could have impacts like a mountain range providing a rain shadow, or proximity to water like a lake that moderates temperature. Altitude is a big deal as well and can compensate for latitude with some success, like in Mexico where they have vineyards at 6500 ft!

Then there’s the biological factors. Nearby trees and forests can provide shade or protection from harsh wind, if desirable. Similarly, adjacent or co-agricultural crops might have influence - think lavender grown in the vineyards in Provence, or cover crops in a biodynamic vineyard. Another important biological contribution is the abundance of micro-organism culture in the vineyard - both with native bacteria in the soil, and of course the variety of airborne yeasts that will one day ferment those beautiful grapes. Terroir can also encompass human input as well. Certain wine regions embody traditions that contribute to the overall discussion.

The geologic story is under our feet all the time. It influences everything from farming, food, it impacts wine, human tradition and culture. Wine tells a story about how this one little piece of earth is unique and special. Anyone can learn about wine by drinking it and thinking about the geologic story of a wine or why this part of the vineyard tastes like a certain way. Geology is literally the bedrock of a place, and different types of bedrock will weather into different soils and textures. This is important to how it can hold or reflect heat and drain water which impacts the development of the wine relative to all the other terroir factors in play.

Most crops require fertile soil that is homogeneous and can have 50 feet of topsoil before reaching bedrock. However, our friend the Vitis Vinifera grapevine is different as an agricultural commodity because it actually likes to grow on rock. Vineyard soils are weak by comparison, infertile. Vines can grow very deep through fissures of the bedrock, searching for a consistent source of water and nutrients, and will persist as far down until something stops them. Vines do well in soils that break apart the resident earth, they seem to enjoy the exploration into the depths, expanding possibilities for vitality. They are a curious bunch, these magical vines.

Part of it is just a function of vascular plants doing their thing. Roots pump acid into soil, furthering the breakdown of minerals, and when statically charged, nutrients such as Potassium, Calcium, and Sodium cling to them. This is called the Cation Exchange Principle - basically, the roots trade hydrogen (from water) for these nutrients. Not to go too far down any overly sciencey rabbit holes, but there’s also an inherent balance between pH and soil composition. Limestone is an alkaline composite while Granite/volcanic soils are acidic. Alkaline soil produces more acidic wine and vice versa but no one knows why exactly. It’s things like this that get vignerons and enthusiasts excited about soil, and it's pretty important to understand if you have an idea about what to plant in your vineyard.

Soil, it is worth considering, is the unconsolidated cover of the earth - 5% organic and 45% mineral component, with 50% air and water which is transient and perpetually in a state of exchange for each other. This action creates the forces known as weathering. Bedrock is forming the soil as decomposed rock, or soil can be deposited by transporting material from elsewhere - wind, water, ice, or even glaciers being the usual suspects.

The conversation surrounding soil can be divided into two frames of reference: soil texture and soil composition. Texture is how large the grain of the soil is - gravel being the largest, grainy sand, then gritty silt, and clay being the finest. Then there are 3 types of rocks that break down into soil - igneous, formed from molten rock (Granite, Basalt) or expelled from volcanic activity (Pumice, Obsidian). Metamorphic rocks are buried deep and formed by high heat and pressure, which re-crystallize into different composites (Slate, Schist, Gneiss, Marble). Sedimentary rocks are made up of resident and alluvial components which harden under pressure (Shale, Siltstone, Sandstone) and in some cases can form from the ancient remains of dead sea life - which is how we get limestone. The most interesting wines combine textures and have a blend of soil compositions as we will learn with our titillating array of wines this release.

Terroir always has a limiting factor: water, disease pressure, etc. In a cool growing region like acclaimed Champagne, the limiting factor is ripening. Best slope aspects can vary depending on temperature of the vintage - a hotter year might require north facing, cool year south toard the sun. It’s the reason why most Champagne is non-vintage, because if producers want to make a consistent product, blending the vintages is necessary. Why wine people geek out about this stuff is because it matters - what's most important varies based on all of the factors going into play in one location, it’s all part of a greater context, a circle of life, and to inquire is to create better intimacy with the wine you’re sipping, that magical elixir in a glass is truly transportive, and we have terroir to send our gratitude for elevating the wines we enjoy. Nature finds its voice in wine, spoken in the language of the senses.

If you listen closely... the wine is speking to you.